Amazing!
Rare is the opportunity to spend a solid month with ones nearest and dearest, so I'm feeling really lucky. It was the kind of once-in-a-lifetime experience, I guess. Fortunately, we quite like one another and enjoy being together, so that helps.
My highlights were visiting Montecassino and Assisi. Not simply because they are iconic monastic sights, but they are beautiful in themselves and glorious places to go.
Lake Como was perfection - mountains, lakes, pretty villages, friendly people - and would be hard to beat anywhere.
Driving across Europe was rather fun. Drivers are respectful in France, neat and orderly in Switzerland, and mad as snakes in Italy! The country where white lines are nearly guidelines, speed limits are suggestions, and most vehicles seem to have bumps and scratches! They don't so much travel, they kind of pour themselves down the road like good olive oil, following the path of least resistance, speeding along good naturedly. I did all the driving in Italy, so I am relieved to have returned my family in one piece.
So now I'm hankering to return. We didn't waste a minute whilst we were there, and will continue to live the experience.
Thank you to my wonderful family for a great time.
Nick
Tuesday, 14 April 2015
Jude's Highlights of Italy
I thought Italy was awesome and beautiful. It had good food but not good drinks, except for the hot milk with cocoa sprinkled on. The food I liked best was pizza and gnocchi and I ate lots of it. The puddings looked nice and it mostly was nice. Italy has the best ice cream in all the countries on earth. Ice cream is called gelato in the Italian language.
The first house we stayed in was my favourite because it was the nicest. It was in Verona and we had to go up in a lift or lots of stairs. My two second favourite houses were in Rome and near Lake Como. I liked going out in Verona and the to the local supermarket which was called Pam. In lake Como I liked playing on the beaches and climbing on rocks. I had fun playing in the dead ruins (Herculaneum) and it was very sunny. The weather before when we went up the volcano was very misty and rainy and cold.
I might come back to Italy some day because it is awesome and fun.
Jude
The first house we stayed in was my favourite because it was the nicest. It was in Verona and we had to go up in a lift or lots of stairs. My two second favourite houses were in Rome and near Lake Como. I liked going out in Verona and the to the local supermarket which was called Pam. In lake Como I liked playing on the beaches and climbing on rocks. I had fun playing in the dead ruins (Herculaneum) and it was very sunny. The weather before when we went up the volcano was very misty and rainy and cold.
I might come back to Italy some day because it is awesome and fun.
Jude
Saturday, 11 April 2015
Swiss Coke ~ 10 April
Today we drove across Italy, Switzerland and France. I needed to pee at least 4 times and I bought a Swiss coke zero which looks quite cool next my Italian Coke. My brothers owe me 40p between them because for some reason they thought the French flag was either RWB or WRB but of course they were certain it was that way, although I told them that I was pretty sure it was BWR but they didn't believe me. When we got to Switzerland everyone wondered, except me, why the Swiss cars sometimes had CH on them and on the border it said 'welcome to Switzerland CH' and of course even though I said it was the letters that represent their country like GB is Great Britain, it took quite some convincing and a road map to get them to believe me, but hey ho. As it turns out they use CHF, Swiss francs, in Switzerland instead of euros. We had some nice cake and it was delicious. So it's worth noting if you go to Switzerland that they use Swiss francs.
After that short story shorter we drove to Metz. Found the hotel, walked round. It was a very nice city but surprisingly my Mum didn't suggest that we should buy a holiday house there? We bought some chips from a burger place and after eventually getting what we wanted to get, somehow there was some confusion, we went back to the hotel. But, interestingly the man in the burger doo-dah thought me and my Dad were German. No clue why??? *I do know why* and besides, if we were German I'm sure we'd speak much better French! So after that toe-tickling tale of terror we watched Iron Man the Third. Which made surprising sense even though it was in French. Some people who don't die try and kill Iron Man who then tries and kills them. After this effortlessly exhausting day we decided to turn in for the night.
|_~1 day later~_|
Oh joy, I have missed out an 'important' part of our journey so I have to write it here. We went on a boat for 10 mins across the lake at the beginning.
Also I learned loads more useful French in the 20 hours we spent there, and a lot of that was spent sleeping, than I had at school??? Which is good because they would give me strange looks if I told what colour hair I had and that I sometimes wear jeans because it gets cold in Britain.
~Zach~
Near crushed experience ~ 9th April
Note that nobody was harmed in the events that follow.
As it was our last full day in Italy :( we had to do something extra special; so, we decided to visit the town of Como itself. Como is the capital city of the surrounding areas which therefore had the lake named after it (Lake Como~Lago Di Como). We walked (quickly) to the bus stop and caught a bus to Como. The bus driver could of warned about the scary corners and lumps in the road. Unfortunately it would have been in Italian. After the ride (no-one was sick surprisingly) we started walking towards "the place that is ahead of us" (quoted by our dad). Later we bought takeaway pizzas and ate them in a square by the side of the lake. Later that night, back in Bellagio, we walked to a fancy 'Ristorante' and ate pizza (yes more pizza!)
Reuben
P.S my next blog post will be a sum up of our (mostly) brilliant holl and will contain a lot of stats including 'how many pizzas eaten' and 'Aprox how many miles of driving'
As it was our last full day in Italy :( we had to do something extra special; so, we decided to visit the town of Como itself. Como is the capital city of the surrounding areas which therefore had the lake named after it (Lake Como~Lago Di Como). We walked (quickly) to the bus stop and caught a bus to Como. The bus driver could of warned about the scary corners and lumps in the road. Unfortunately it would have been in Italian. After the ride (no-one was sick surprisingly) we started walking towards "the place that is ahead of us" (quoted by our dad). Later we bought takeaway pizzas and ate them in a square by the side of the lake. Later that night, back in Bellagio, we walked to a fancy 'Ristorante' and ate pizza (yes more pizza!)
Reuben
P.S my next blog post will be a sum up of our (mostly) brilliant holl and will contain a lot of stats including 'how many pizzas eaten' and 'Aprox how many miles of driving'
Thursday, 9 April 2015
Snails on red bull: A sincere concoction of the tales of our travels in Varrena ~ April 8th
So once again the duty of this confounded blog has fallen to me. Oh Joy. But anywho, today we caught the ferry across to Varrena, at least that was when we found the right ferry.
When we did board the correct vessel we sailed REASONABLY slowly, like a snail after drinking 3 litres of red bull, across the Lago Di Como. As it turned out we had the whole boat to ourselves, although I do feel it was a missed opportunity because I'm sure there was lots more fun to be had on a pretty empty boat. I'm pretty sure there must of been some freebies somewhere even if it was just sugar, which might even of sped up the snails but it might just make them need the toilet. But yeah, those are just my deeply respected personal opinions. After we disembarked the ghost ship we started to walk round the town and walked through the narrow streets which the guide book specifically implored would be 'a gentle stroll through trafficless streets so you do not have to worry about cars' Well, what can I say, I think it must have been written in the 17th century before cars were invented or something because it was about as true as the earth is flat. Anyways we stopped at a tourist office and found our way to local castella. We were 'reliably' informed that one route would take us through the woods with lots of rocks to climb. Now, I don't know how similar Italian is to English but... I was expecting a nice wood with LOTS of trees and big rocks to climb. But sadly it turns out I was wrong because I was thinking 'Climb rocks, by invitation, through the woods, absolutely' Because normally there just happens to a big rock there because Obelix* put one there in Asterix and the enormously large rocks of Italy. And you climb them because it's fun. So I feeling quite happy and excited about this but as it turns out the person at the tourist was being quite hyperboletic about this. Because the rocks turned out to just be the many thousand stone steps which we had to climb but it wasn't quite as 'fun' as I was expecting. But anyway after that we saw a castle had lunch stopped at a cafe and had drinks and my parents had piadines and we played on a beach a bit later. And yes we did later go down the other route in case we had got a bit confuzzeled (confused and muddled) just to check but no, sadly there were no big rocks. That was basically our day :)
~Zach~
Wednesday, 8 April 2015
Bellagio
With the car securely locked away in an underground car park, today we set off on foot to explore Bellagio. Whilst we are actually staying in a hamlet 20 minutes walk above the town, it is a lovely walk down cobbled pathways. The town is obviously set up for tourists, but managed to have a quiet, understated atmosphere about it, and a slightly tumble-down feel to it.
A parallel grid of steep roads, impossible for vehicles, make up an area of shops and eateries. We lunched standing up with slices of pizza, and only sat down for drinks later (wine, of course, for the adults - it was after midday!). Hot in the sunshine, and surprisingly chilly in the shade, we wandered happily around for most of the day.
Finding a lakeside spot for the boys to toss stones, and for daddy to have a short nap, the views are impossibly lovely in every direction. Lake, mountains, boats, villas, botanical gardens and vertiginous lanes, I think we have fallen in love with the place!
Nick
A parallel grid of steep roads, impossible for vehicles, make up an area of shops and eateries. We lunched standing up with slices of pizza, and only sat down for drinks later (wine, of course, for the adults - it was after midday!). Hot in the sunshine, and surprisingly chilly in the shade, we wandered happily around for most of the day.
Finding a lakeside spot for the boys to toss stones, and for daddy to have a short nap, the views are impossibly lovely in every direction. Lake, mountains, boats, villas, botanical gardens and vertiginous lanes, I think we have fallen in love with the place!
Nick
Tuesday, 7 April 2015
Heading North ~ 6th April
We leave the green hills of Umbria and head back up north for Lake Como. It is a long drive (around 7 hours) but a very beautiful one. It helps that the sun has returned, although we can see snow on some of the highest mountains in the distance. Once north of Umbria the landscape changes from magnificent hills to being rather flat, although still beautiful with plenty of green fields and trees.
Once we reach Milan we can see the snow topped mountains in the distance and look forward to reaching the lake. Soon the lake is in view and it is rather splendid with the mountains behind. The drive around the lake is quite hazardous with very narrow lanes which don't look wide enough for two cars! We reach Bellagio which is North East of Como and our home for the next few days. We are greeted by the lovely apartment owners who show us around. The apartment has lakeside views which really are breathtaking. It is so beautiful here I know I will be sad to leave it and am already planning our next holiday here!
Diane
Monday, 6 April 2015
Return to Spoleto
It's Easter Day, and we managed to mark this with a complete lack of organised religion! I now understand more viscerally why churches ring their bells. They sing their news to those who are outside their walls. All are included.
Anyway, this is what I told myself whilst I was still lying in bed this morning, long after I would have led at least three services had life been normal at the moment.
Instead, family breakfast (and the opening of Italian-style Easter eggs) was followed by a wonder back into Spoleto. Lovely as before, we headed back to the restaurant where we had eaten a couple of days ago. Working on UK eating time, we were the first customers there and were very well looked after by an English-speaking waiter. Truffle bruschetta and home-made pasta, a couple of glasses of the local wine, and a selection of puddings were all it took to satisfy us all (and access to WiFi, which also helped).
We then took another walk around the town, walking uphill to explore the amazing Ponte delle Torri, a 755 ft long and 230 ft high bridge which spans the river Tessino (a disappointing trickle of a river), which was started by the Romans.
Back to the apartment for a spot of cleaning and washing in anticipation of an early-ish start in the morning, and another seven hours of driving.
Nick
Anyway, this is what I told myself whilst I was still lying in bed this morning, long after I would have led at least three services had life been normal at the moment.
Instead, family breakfast (and the opening of Italian-style Easter eggs) was followed by a wonder back into Spoleto. Lovely as before, we headed back to the restaurant where we had eaten a couple of days ago. Working on UK eating time, we were the first customers there and were very well looked after by an English-speaking waiter. Truffle bruschetta and home-made pasta, a couple of glasses of the local wine, and a selection of puddings were all it took to satisfy us all (and access to WiFi, which also helped).
We then took another walk around the town, walking uphill to explore the amazing Ponte delle Torri, a 755 ft long and 230 ft high bridge which spans the river Tessino (a disappointing trickle of a river), which was started by the Romans.
Back to the apartment for a spot of cleaning and washing in anticipation of an early-ish start in the morning, and another seven hours of driving.
Nick
Sunday, 5 April 2015
And so to Assisi - 4th April
Today was perfect.
One major item on my bucket list was to visit Assisi, and today we did. Having made contact again with an old friend, with the help of Facebook, we met up with the wonderful Patrizia Rollino, first met in Taize in 1992, and last time in Alnmouth in about 1995. Being native, and a many time visitor to the city, Patrizia made a wonderful tour guide of Assisi.
Having prepared the family last night by watching Franco Zepherelli's Brother Sun and Sister Moon, we were ready! We picked Patrizia up at the station, after she had overnighted it from Turin, and shuttled up to nearer the town centre.
In our debrief over a late dinner with the boys, having waved Patrizia off back at the station, we decided that the highlight was the old church of San Damiano, initially restored by Francis, then inhabited by the Poor Clares. Simple - harsh, even - but austerely beautiful, and with an atmosphere that glowed.
The basilica was also lovely, as were the narrow winding streets, and the church of San Ruffino, where a Catholic Scouting group had gathered to sing and fill the place with life.
Phrase of the day came from Patrizia, who always refers to ancient ruins as 'Roman Leftovers'!!
We were also introduced to a kind of sandwich, the name of which I sadly, and stupidly forget, but consists of a warm tortilla wrap, folded up with the hot filling of ones choosing, and puddings called 'Francis Bread' and another one that was like a fruit Stollen.
Il Poverello is heavily commercialized, but Assisi shines through.
Excellent!
Pax et bonum.
Nick
One major item on my bucket list was to visit Assisi, and today we did. Having made contact again with an old friend, with the help of Facebook, we met up with the wonderful Patrizia Rollino, first met in Taize in 1992, and last time in Alnmouth in about 1995. Being native, and a many time visitor to the city, Patrizia made a wonderful tour guide of Assisi.
Having prepared the family last night by watching Franco Zepherelli's Brother Sun and Sister Moon, we were ready! We picked Patrizia up at the station, after she had overnighted it from Turin, and shuttled up to nearer the town centre.
In our debrief over a late dinner with the boys, having waved Patrizia off back at the station, we decided that the highlight was the old church of San Damiano, initially restored by Francis, then inhabited by the Poor Clares. Simple - harsh, even - but austerely beautiful, and with an atmosphere that glowed.
The basilica was also lovely, as were the narrow winding streets, and the church of San Ruffino, where a Catholic Scouting group had gathered to sing and fill the place with life.
Phrase of the day came from Patrizia, who always refers to ancient ruins as 'Roman Leftovers'!!
We were also introduced to a kind of sandwich, the name of which I sadly, and stupidly forget, but consists of a warm tortilla wrap, folded up with the hot filling of ones choosing, and puddings called 'Francis Bread' and another one that was like a fruit Stollen.
Il Poverello is heavily commercialized, but Assisi shines through.
Excellent!
Pax et bonum.
Nick
Perugia and Spello ~ 3rd April
Today we head for Perugia in Northern Umbria. The journey is rather beautiful with luscious green hills all around. After an hour we reach Perugia which is Umbria's capital. The City is perched on the hill top and has a wonderful feel to it with its medieval history and being a bustling university town. The streets lead us to the top of the City where the Dumo stands next to a rather splendid fountain with biblical Old Testament scenes carved out. The streets are rather quiet and we wander around and take in the views whilst an accordionist busking plays a rather French sounding tune making the walk feel very atmospheric.
We leave Perugia and stop off at a town the guide book describes as 'one of the prettiest towns in Umbria' to check it out. Again the town is built on a hill and we walk up the steep streets to find the view point. We see beautiful giant canvases on the streets depicting Easter scenes dotted around the street. It is a very pretty town with a relaxed feel to it. We enjoy delicious gelato ( I had fig, very yummy) as we walk and reach the top. The view is amazing with Assisi in the distance and rolling hills around. We find a cafe bar and end the day with a glass of wine and think this town is worth another visit one day.
Diane
We leave Perugia and stop off at a town the guide book describes as 'one of the prettiest towns in Umbria' to check it out. Again the town is built on a hill and we walk up the steep streets to find the view point. We see beautiful giant canvases on the streets depicting Easter scenes dotted around the street. It is a very pretty town with a relaxed feel to it. We enjoy delicious gelato ( I had fig, very yummy) as we walk and reach the top. The view is amazing with Assisi in the distance and rolling hills around. We find a cafe bar and end the day with a glass of wine and think this town is worth another visit one day.
Diane
The Living Waterfall (Mamore Waterfall) ~ 2nd April
We went to a Waterfall there were lots of rocks to climb on and it was fun. We went walking on lots of paths and climbed on trees and stuff. We sat down at a café and I drew a cartoon on a napkin. Then a siren went off and we got really excited. But it was just a warning. Four sirens later the waterfall turned on properly and 10 minutes later it was gushing with water. But I was playing with the ants cos it was fun. Then we walked back to the car and on the way back we got wet by the spray. It was fun.
Jude (mostly writen by Zach)
Friday, 3 April 2015
Splendid Spoleto ~ 1 April
We awake to another glorious day and take in the spectacular views from our Castello apartment. It really is amazing here and feel glad that we have 7 days here to relax and explore the delights of Umbria. After a short drive we are in Spoleto and head uphill to see the city. We wander amongst the streets with no clear notion of where they lead. It is easy to get lost here amongst these ancient streets, particularly as it is quiet. We find our way to the Duomo which is impressive in its simplicity (fewer frescoes) and beautiful mosaic tiled floors.
We found a fabulous restaurant and the boys enjoyed pizza (again) whilst watching the Simpsons and the Big Bang in Italian! Nick and I sampled the local wine (very good) and had a rather good 'vegetarian plate' (impressed to see it on the menu). Feeling rather relaxed we wander through the streets taking in the local shops on the way. It really is a pretty place. Back to our lovely apartment for a glass of wine whilst taking in the spectacular views. It feels like the perfect end to a good day.
Diane
Wednesday, 1 April 2015
heading north again - 31st March
Leaving Sorrento was difficult. Not so much because it was so beautiful, which it was, but because it's Italy and my satnav is belligerent, which makes everything just that little bit more challenging! Bloody nightmarish at times. However, I'm still delighted to have all my paintwork and both wing mirrors!
We spent our time on the Naples through road discussing what would happen if the 'most dangerous volcano in the world' actually woke up. Sobering to think, especially as Naples is in its pathway. Jude thought the whole thing would be a wheeze!
On our way to Spoleto we stopped off at the famous monastery of Monte Cassino, the home of Benedictine monasticism. The place sits on top of the most incredible hill, with breathtaking (Jude's favourite description these days) views all round. Incredible art, beautiful church, and divine landscapes. There was even a Botticelli in the museum. What is there not to like? The only thing missing is any information, or even signs of life regarding the present monastic community. Sad.
Arrived safely at our next apartment. Residing in a humble castle on the outskirts of town. Beautiful scenery, and very grateful for being allowed to stay in someone's family holiday home.
No WiFi, though, this week, so now forced to sit in a restaurant, drinking wine, and awaiting the arrival of tiramisu.... just so as I can write this. Such suffering!
We spent our time on the Naples through road discussing what would happen if the 'most dangerous volcano in the world' actually woke up. Sobering to think, especially as Naples is in its pathway. Jude thought the whole thing would be a wheeze!
On our way to Spoleto we stopped off at the famous monastery of Monte Cassino, the home of Benedictine monasticism. The place sits on top of the most incredible hill, with breathtaking (Jude's favourite description these days) views all round. Incredible art, beautiful church, and divine landscapes. There was even a Botticelli in the museum. What is there not to like? The only thing missing is any information, or even signs of life regarding the present monastic community. Sad.
Arrived safely at our next apartment. Residing in a humble castle on the outskirts of town. Beautiful scenery, and very grateful for being allowed to stay in someone's family holiday home.
No WiFi, though, this week, so now forced to sit in a restaurant, drinking wine, and awaiting the arrival of tiramisu.... just so as I can write this. Such suffering!
Nick
Monday, 30 March 2015
The Dead Ruins ~ 30th March
On the weather forecast it said it was a very showery day. But it wasn't actually that showery and we went up the dangerestest volcano in the WORLD!!! Vaicono Vader (Jude's name for Vesuvius). So we drove up the curly spinny bit and it was very soggy. We did not like the weather and we came up at the top and then you don't wanna know then. Oh yes you do!! Nooo. Err Yeah. After the Vaicono we went to Herculaneum. It was the dead ruins of doom. It looked very fun to play in like for hide and seek. It was in a big hole. The weather was very sunny and very nice now. The Roman houses are different to my house because they had little rooms and one big room in the middle. They had gardens in the middle of their houses too with little ponds. The houses were made of stone and the had house numbers which looked newer than they should of looked from the eruption. All the houses were in one big row and they had a normal sized pavement but the road was smaller than these days ones. And in middle sized rooms there was dead skeletons in each room next to each other in one little row they looked freaky and dead. They looked like they were risen from the dead mostly just sitting there doing nothing. Herculaneum was a very fine town and it looked quite nice to live there.
Jude (typed word for word with minimal editing by Zach)
Jude (typed word for word with minimal editing by Zach)
Sunday, 29 March 2015
To Ravello and back....in one piece - 29th March
Today was our drive along the Amalfi Coast, an exciting experience to say the least!
We set off rather late, but we blame the change of clocks. Putting Positano into the satnav, we headed up hill, and up, and up. Almost the most exciting part of the day was early on. Imagine the precipitous, narrow roads that worm their way around these hillside towns. Then combine with satnav that has three settings: Fastest, Shortest, and Bloody Eccentric. Using the latter, we are commanded to climb south, then veer off onto minor side roads, until we are very nearly wedged up someone's back ally (and that is no euphemism!). It took some embarrassing reversing to extricate ourselves, after which we just followed the obvious road signs.
Cresting the peninsula on which Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast reside, a spectacular view unfolds, and we glide our way down hill and along the windy, fearful roads. Gripping the steering wheel with a Herculean squeeze, I can't imagine this trip being one we get out of alive. An early conversation went, "Who should write the blog tonight?". "The survivor", came the reply! Only at that moment, whilst I fretted at the wheel, did I notice a young lady riding a scooter behind me trying to overtake us, steering one-handed, whilst nochulantly smoking with the other. Quite emasculated, I felt.
I realise now why there are few Italian cars without bumps or scratches, and many without wing mirrors (not that they make excessive use of them - why bother when you have a horn?). The road along the coast is as beautiful as it is anxiety-inducing, but I loved every moment of it. Not only did the sun shine all day, and the sea was an incredible 'turquoise-ie', as Zach put it, there were gorgeous views in every direction. Driving, I could only snatch glimpses, but I was fascinated by the terraced slopes, the bridges and the tunnels, and the ingenious ways in which inhospitable contours had been tamed.
We passed through Positano (though we did look for a place to park, we failed, and the consensus was that, pretty though it was, we had seen enough of the town by the time we reached an exit point again), so we wheeled our way along towards Amalfi and lunch. Once sated, we braced ourselves and headed up hill to Ravello, and the recommendations did not disappoint. I have not seen views like it since travelling in Himachel Pradesh and the foot hills of the Himalayas. The only thing missing was a Tibetan Buddhist monastery hanging precariously off the side of a hill. The exquisite beauty of the place was not even diminished by the fact that the Americans (and plenty of them) seem to ohave found it first. We explored the narrow lanes, drank coffee in the Piazza Vescovado (not the kids, they are hyper enough already!), and even popped into the church of San Francesco, where you light electric votive candles by dropping coins in a slot.
The journey home provided its own entertainment as streams of life-limited motorcyclists overtook us on hairpin bends and blind corners. There were even cyclists and joggers along the road, vying for space and mortality (even though it is up to 20*c, the locals are still in heavy coats and hats, and one jogger was wearing a full balaclava to protect them from the cold - I've never felt more like a Yorkshireman than in recent days when I have donned little more than shorts and tshirt in defiance of the native's winter apparel).
So that's another one to chalk up to experience. Fear and beauty in equal measure.
Tomorrow, Pompeii and 'the most dangerous volcano in the world'.
Nick
We set off rather late, but we blame the change of clocks. Putting Positano into the satnav, we headed up hill, and up, and up. Almost the most exciting part of the day was early on. Imagine the precipitous, narrow roads that worm their way around these hillside towns. Then combine with satnav that has three settings: Fastest, Shortest, and Bloody Eccentric. Using the latter, we are commanded to climb south, then veer off onto minor side roads, until we are very nearly wedged up someone's back ally (and that is no euphemism!). It took some embarrassing reversing to extricate ourselves, after which we just followed the obvious road signs.
Cresting the peninsula on which Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast reside, a spectacular view unfolds, and we glide our way down hill and along the windy, fearful roads. Gripping the steering wheel with a Herculean squeeze, I can't imagine this trip being one we get out of alive. An early conversation went, "Who should write the blog tonight?". "The survivor", came the reply! Only at that moment, whilst I fretted at the wheel, did I notice a young lady riding a scooter behind me trying to overtake us, steering one-handed, whilst nochulantly smoking with the other. Quite emasculated, I felt.
I realise now why there are few Italian cars without bumps or scratches, and many without wing mirrors (not that they make excessive use of them - why bother when you have a horn?). The road along the coast is as beautiful as it is anxiety-inducing, but I loved every moment of it. Not only did the sun shine all day, and the sea was an incredible 'turquoise-ie', as Zach put it, there were gorgeous views in every direction. Driving, I could only snatch glimpses, but I was fascinated by the terraced slopes, the bridges and the tunnels, and the ingenious ways in which inhospitable contours had been tamed.
We passed through Positano (though we did look for a place to park, we failed, and the consensus was that, pretty though it was, we had seen enough of the town by the time we reached an exit point again), so we wheeled our way along towards Amalfi and lunch. Once sated, we braced ourselves and headed up hill to Ravello, and the recommendations did not disappoint. I have not seen views like it since travelling in Himachel Pradesh and the foot hills of the Himalayas. The only thing missing was a Tibetan Buddhist monastery hanging precariously off the side of a hill. The exquisite beauty of the place was not even diminished by the fact that the Americans (and plenty of them) seem to ohave found it first. We explored the narrow lanes, drank coffee in the Piazza Vescovado (not the kids, they are hyper enough already!), and even popped into the church of San Francesco, where you light electric votive candles by dropping coins in a slot.
The journey home provided its own entertainment as streams of life-limited motorcyclists overtook us on hairpin bends and blind corners. There were even cyclists and joggers along the road, vying for space and mortality (even though it is up to 20*c, the locals are still in heavy coats and hats, and one jogger was wearing a full balaclava to protect them from the cold - I've never felt more like a Yorkshireman than in recent days when I have donned little more than shorts and tshirt in defiance of the native's winter apparel).
So that's another one to chalk up to experience. Fear and beauty in equal measure.
Tomorrow, Pompeii and 'the most dangerous volcano in the world'.
Nick
Sunny Sorrento ~ 28th March
After arriving in Sorrento in the rain last night it was a joy to awake to a sunny day. The views from our apartment are amazing with the sea and mountains around us (including Mt Vesuvius!). We are staying just on the edge of Sorrento and decide to explore the local area on foot and head off towards the town. The streets are lined wth orange and lemon trees and it is very tempting to pick the fruit! A short walk takes us to a view point of the sea and cliffs below us with spectacular views. We explore the path down to the beach which takes us underground through the cliff. It is a tiny beach and the sand is black from the volcanic rock. The boys amuse themselves with stone skimming and Jude collects some shiny stones.
It is a pleasant walk into the town which is reasonably bustling with tourists, although not crowded thankfully. Sorrento has that lovely seaside feel about it and is very relaxed out of season without the hoards of holidaymakers. We find a quaint street to wander down and look at the market sellers displaying their goods. Amongst the colourful fruit and vegetables we see the biggest lemons we have ever seen, literally bigger than my hand! Nick and the boys head off to explore the port area and eat (more) gelato whilst I have a look around the market shops. As we walk back to our apartment the day has become rather hot. It is amusing to see the locals wrapped up in their coats (and sometimes hats too!) whilst we feel overdressed in jeans and Tshirts. A cool gin and tonic on our verander is a perfect end to a hot day. I can see Mt Vesuvius looming in the background ..... The Amalfi Coast tomorrow.
Diane
It is a pleasant walk into the town which is reasonably bustling with tourists, although not crowded thankfully. Sorrento has that lovely seaside feel about it and is very relaxed out of season without the hoards of holidaymakers. We find a quaint street to wander down and look at the market sellers displaying their goods. Amongst the colourful fruit and vegetables we see the biggest lemons we have ever seen, literally bigger than my hand! Nick and the boys head off to explore the port area and eat (more) gelato whilst I have a look around the market shops. As we walk back to our apartment the day has become rather hot. It is amusing to see the locals wrapped up in their coats (and sometimes hats too!) whilst we feel overdressed in jeans and Tshirts. A cool gin and tonic on our verander is a perfect end to a hot day. I can see Mt Vesuvius looming in the background ..... The Amalfi Coast tomorrow.
Diane
Saturday, 28 March 2015
The Ruins Of Ostia ~ 27th March
We arrived in Ostia, which is a small port town that was on the coast 2000 years ago give or take a few hundred years, at about 11:00. The town of Ostia - also the home of Flavia Gemina from the 'Roman Mystery' series of books (check it out!!!) was in ruins ;-(. Temples and houses were no more. It took a long time to walk all the way across it but on the way we saw a well and mini amphitheatre! Did you know that Ostia is the largest preserved archeological site in Europe! On the way we decided to play tig in the mass of mazey ruins. There were loads of small rooms to quickly dive in and hide. Eventually, we got to the other end and found a museum. Inside there were sculptures, statues and paintings. It was very exciting to visit this place that I had visitited before in Caroline Lawrence's fictional world.
Reuben
Reuben
Friday, 27 March 2015
Religious Poundland ~ 26th March
So today we went into Rome again, and I have to say I enjoyed it a lot more this time with about 98% less selfie stickers and 100% better weather. But unfortunately my esteemed Fathers' phone had decided to not work on this particular day, after an unexpected caper with a natural downpour of early morning rain whilst running. As a result of this entanglement I had to be the guide. So I quickly responded to this terrible shenanigan by downloading my own map of Rome on my phone. Tentatively I directed our party to the right place to get off and we headed off. First we went into Campo de' Fiori, and in reasonable time too as the bus decided it might as well come this time. My parents got their own coffee mugs and my Dad decided, of all the colours to get, what he was insisting was 'Franciscan Brown'. We then went and got pizza. It was very nice And we were particularly pleased when our delicacy arrived that we had gone for the no. 15 chip pizza with: Tomato, Mozzarella, Basil and soft French Fries. So yeah it was very nice.
Then we went to the Jewish Ghetto. At least it was a Jewish Ghetto, I think, because it didn't look like a Ghetto. In fact it looked quite nice. You could easily spot the Jewishness by the kosher shops and deep fried artichokes. I bought a postcard, it wasn't exactly a major event but it happened. We then moved onto more religious ground when we stumbled up to San Ignasio and looked round the massive church. Following along the religious theme we managed to pass a shop selling priesty things, which my Mum found particularly amusing. Just round the corner we saw another priest shop and watched two nuns walk in excitedly and my Mum said 'Look, its a religious tat shop' which was of course immediately responded by 'I didn't know you could get €100 gleamingly golden chalices in pound land' after this little escapade we once again put our faith in my phone (and by extension me) to guide us to the bus. But we did stop for a doughnut on the way as we didn't get pudding in the restaurant.
~Zach~
Then we went to the Jewish Ghetto. At least it was a Jewish Ghetto, I think, because it didn't look like a Ghetto. In fact it looked quite nice. You could easily spot the Jewishness by the kosher shops and deep fried artichokes. I bought a postcard, it wasn't exactly a major event but it happened. We then moved onto more religious ground when we stumbled up to San Ignasio and looked round the massive church. Following along the religious theme we managed to pass a shop selling priesty things, which my Mum found particularly amusing. Just round the corner we saw another priest shop and watched two nuns walk in excitedly and my Mum said 'Look, its a religious tat shop' which was of course immediately responded by 'I didn't know you could get €100 gleamingly golden chalices in pound land' after this little escapade we once again put our faith in my phone (and by extension me) to guide us to the bus. But we did stop for a doughnut on the way as we didn't get pudding in the restaurant.
~Zach~
Wednesday, 25 March 2015
What do selfie-stick sellers sell when it's raining? ~ 25th March
Our second day in Rome dawned wet. And, despite our wishes, ended wet. Oh, and it was fantastically wet between those times! Altogether, precipitation was the theme of the day.
I, Nick, just to show off, got up early and ran into the city, round the outside of the Colluseum, and back again (all in pouring rain). It should have been a five miler, but, because of my amazingly poor sense of direction this morning, it became eight as I headed confidently out of the city in the wrong direction!
The answer to the question posed in the title above is 'umbrellas and ponchos'. All the sellers, all male and all non-European, usually sell from a limited stock of selfie-sticks and squeeky-ball-animal-thingies. But, as soon as the weather turned, they all morphed into wet-weather gear salesmen. Then later, in a brief window of not-so-terrible-weather, a selfie-stick or two emerged like shy spring flowers! Kind of sweet.
When we were all ready this morning, and because of the deleterious weather forecast, we all jumped on the 628 bus and headed to the Vatican. Surely, it being only March, the climate unfriendly, and a Wednesday afternoon, we would virtually have the place to ourselves?! In our ignorance and naivety, we were met by queues of hundreds, if not thousands, of hardy tourists. In another queue later on we fell into conversation with a young American couple who said, "We made a mistake. We thought, what with this terrible weather, and it being only March, let's go to visit the Vatican. We'll have it to ourselves!"
So, shying away from the long, wet queues waiting to go into St Peter's Basillica, we headed round the corner, already somewhat damp, to join the line for the Vatican Museum. And it was a long one! Determined, and not seduced by the touts promising quick entry, in return for relieving one of one's hard earned Euros, we waited. And waited. And.......but at least we had the intermittent driving rain (did I mention the weather?) for entertainment.
The boys, in fact, were fabulous. We got in after an hour or so and explored the treasures within. Some seem to have been permanently borrowed from Egypt. Most, the ancient Roman bits and pieces especially, were stunning. You couldn't turn your head without drinking in a couple of millennia of history and art. Raphael, Michelangelo....in fact all the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtals were represented, me thinks.
Our visit, to our delight, coincided with that of Japan, so it seemed, and about half of the available Spanish school children, who brought with them a delightful air of sullen boredom.
And then, near the very end of our visit, we burst out into the Cistine Chapel - beautiful! All the artistic entertainment necessary for a long and boring sermon. But how gorgeous! We couldn't move for visitors, and the awed atmosphere was occasionally disrupted by one of the staff yelling intermittently, over the general subdued chatter, for SILENCE and REPECT! Rather shattered the spell.
At the end of our visit to the museum we were disgorged once again, now warm and nearly dry, back onto the rainy Rome streets. It was after 5pm, and Diane pulled us over to St Peter's Basillica to see if the crowds and queues had now abated. Through driving rain we found a minimal line of people, and made our way via security checks into the very heart of the Vatican. Wow! Despite there being enough collected water on the floor of the church to swim to the high altar, it was overwhelmingly beautiful. The crowds had mostly gone home, and we (relatively speaking) had the place to ourselves. Michelangelo' s Pieta did it for me. Aged only 23 when he completed it, the sculpture was truly gorgeous.
Back out into the rain again (it has really got the hang of it by now) we headed off to find our bus stop. All of us, very wet to our under-layers, then laughed and joked as we then waited 45 long cold minutes until a friendly local came to our rescue and put us on an alternative route. A slightly hairy journey then followed as, because water had got into my phone earlier on, the satnav played up, and the misty windows and darkened skies stopped us seeing where we were going.
The relief at arriving back at the flat and changing into warm dry clothes was enormous. Jude had gone quite crinkly over the course of the day. A large plate of spaghetti each, and a couple of glasses of wine for the parents, and order and calm were once more returned to the universe.
I, Nick, just to show off, got up early and ran into the city, round the outside of the Colluseum, and back again (all in pouring rain). It should have been a five miler, but, because of my amazingly poor sense of direction this morning, it became eight as I headed confidently out of the city in the wrong direction!
The answer to the question posed in the title above is 'umbrellas and ponchos'. All the sellers, all male and all non-European, usually sell from a limited stock of selfie-sticks and squeeky-ball-animal-thingies. But, as soon as the weather turned, they all morphed into wet-weather gear salesmen. Then later, in a brief window of not-so-terrible-weather, a selfie-stick or two emerged like shy spring flowers! Kind of sweet.
When we were all ready this morning, and because of the deleterious weather forecast, we all jumped on the 628 bus and headed to the Vatican. Surely, it being only March, the climate unfriendly, and a Wednesday afternoon, we would virtually have the place to ourselves?! In our ignorance and naivety, we were met by queues of hundreds, if not thousands, of hardy tourists. In another queue later on we fell into conversation with a young American couple who said, "We made a mistake. We thought, what with this terrible weather, and it being only March, let's go to visit the Vatican. We'll have it to ourselves!"
So, shying away from the long, wet queues waiting to go into St Peter's Basillica, we headed round the corner, already somewhat damp, to join the line for the Vatican Museum. And it was a long one! Determined, and not seduced by the touts promising quick entry, in return for relieving one of one's hard earned Euros, we waited. And waited. And.......but at least we had the intermittent driving rain (did I mention the weather?) for entertainment.
The boys, in fact, were fabulous. We got in after an hour or so and explored the treasures within. Some seem to have been permanently borrowed from Egypt. Most, the ancient Roman bits and pieces especially, were stunning. You couldn't turn your head without drinking in a couple of millennia of history and art. Raphael, Michelangelo....in fact all the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtals were represented, me thinks.
Our visit, to our delight, coincided with that of Japan, so it seemed, and about half of the available Spanish school children, who brought with them a delightful air of sullen boredom.
And then, near the very end of our visit, we burst out into the Cistine Chapel - beautiful! All the artistic entertainment necessary for a long and boring sermon. But how gorgeous! We couldn't move for visitors, and the awed atmosphere was occasionally disrupted by one of the staff yelling intermittently, over the general subdued chatter, for SILENCE and REPECT! Rather shattered the spell.
At the end of our visit to the museum we were disgorged once again, now warm and nearly dry, back onto the rainy Rome streets. It was after 5pm, and Diane pulled us over to St Peter's Basillica to see if the crowds and queues had now abated. Through driving rain we found a minimal line of people, and made our way via security checks into the very heart of the Vatican. Wow! Despite there being enough collected water on the floor of the church to swim to the high altar, it was overwhelmingly beautiful. The crowds had mostly gone home, and we (relatively speaking) had the place to ourselves. Michelangelo' s Pieta did it for me. Aged only 23 when he completed it, the sculpture was truly gorgeous.
Back out into the rain again (it has really got the hang of it by now) we headed off to find our bus stop. All of us, very wet to our under-layers, then laughed and joked as we then waited 45 long cold minutes until a friendly local came to our rescue and put us on an alternative route. A slightly hairy journey then followed as, because water had got into my phone earlier on, the satnav played up, and the misty windows and darkened skies stopped us seeing where we were going.
The relief at arriving back at the flat and changing into warm dry clothes was enormous. Jude had gone quite crinkly over the course of the day. A large plate of spaghetti each, and a couple of glasses of wine for the parents, and order and calm were once more returned to the universe.
Tuesday, 24 March 2015
Roaming in Roma ~ 24th March
We awoke to a beautiful morning with lovely views from our balcony of the local park. We are staying in a neighbourhood on the edge of Rome and with the car parked securely in the garage for a few days (phew I hear Nick say!) we went to find the bus to take us into Roma! After a 20 minute ride we reach the city and head towards the Pantheon (after Zach popped into a music store to buy drum sticks!). We have arranged to meet Chris and Judith Humble, who are also in Rome, for a coffee and wait in the sun by the fountain. The Pantheon is impressive as the largest unreinforced concrete dome ever built. As the sun shone through the oculus of the dome's roof, we visit Raphael's tomb (the artist not the ninja turtle) and view the statues and frescoes.
Rome is easily viewed on foot and so we set off to explore some of Rome's iconic sights. The Trevi fountain, currently being restored and drained of water, was still worth a look, with its impressive statue of Neptune. Next the Piazza Navona a pleasant place with its three fountains amongst numerous artist selling their wares and let's not forget the hawkers with their selfie sticks! Around pretty much every corner you turn has an ancient monument to view and it is incredible to feel how much history is around us. We briefly walk along the river and can see St Peters dome in the distance. Next we head towards the colosseum, viewing the impressive Roman forum and Palatine Hill on the way. Just around the corner and we see the colosseum ahead and after a short walk we are standing beneath it in all its glory.
With our feet feeling rather tired we take the bus back to our apartment. There is still plenty more of Rome to view but are we pleased with what we have seen and not least that we managed to navigate the bus journey both ways successfully! Rain is forecast for tomorrow so a good day to view the Vatican Museum.
Diane
Rome is easily viewed on foot and so we set off to explore some of Rome's iconic sights. The Trevi fountain, currently being restored and drained of water, was still worth a look, with its impressive statue of Neptune. Next the Piazza Navona a pleasant place with its three fountains amongst numerous artist selling their wares and let's not forget the hawkers with their selfie sticks! Around pretty much every corner you turn has an ancient monument to view and it is incredible to feel how much history is around us. We briefly walk along the river and can see St Peters dome in the distance. Next we head towards the colosseum, viewing the impressive Roman forum and Palatine Hill on the way. Just around the corner and we see the colosseum ahead and after a short walk we are standing beneath it in all its glory.
With our feet feeling rather tired we take the bus back to our apartment. There is still plenty more of Rome to view but are we pleased with what we have seen and not least that we managed to navigate the bus journey both ways successfully! Rain is forecast for tomorrow so a good day to view the Vatican Museum.
Diane
Monday, 23 March 2015
All roads lead to......... 23rd March
So we left our beautiful country retreat this morning, but not without a stash of the local wine in the boot. It is Reuben's birthday, so we were all up early. Diane had brought a birthday banner from home (and some candles for later - how ingenious!). We now have a big grown-up Reuben, who fell asleep watching Star Wars this evening.
We popped in to visit Monteriggioni on the way, claimed by some to be the prettiest village in Italy. A hill top village with intact defensive walls and incredible views. Not bad at all.
After that we headed south, stopping off somewhere random to raid a supermarket, and staying only long enough for Diane to get locked in when she nipped to the loo!
Then on to Rome. I've decided that driving in Rome is like driving in London, but with additional homicidal mania! I can now tick it off my bucket list (it felt like the bucket was quite close at times) and we're arrived at our apartment intact. Beautiful balcony views with green parrots nesting only a few meters away (noisy buggers!).
Tomorrow we shall explore the city!!
Nick
We popped in to visit Monteriggioni on the way, claimed by some to be the prettiest village in Italy. A hill top village with intact defensive walls and incredible views. Not bad at all.
After that we headed south, stopping off somewhere random to raid a supermarket, and staying only long enough for Diane to get locked in when she nipped to the loo!
Then on to Rome. I've decided that driving in Rome is like driving in London, but with additional homicidal mania! I can now tick it off my bucket list (it felt like the bucket was quite close at times) and we're arrived at our apartment intact. Beautiful balcony views with green parrots nesting only a few meters away (noisy buggers!).
Tomorrow we shall explore the city!!
Nick
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