Monday, 30 March 2015

The Dead Ruins ~ 30th March

On the weather forecast it said it was a very showery day. But it wasn't actually that showery and we went up the dangerestest volcano in the WORLD!!! Vaicono Vader (Jude's name for Vesuvius). So we drove up the curly spinny bit and it was very soggy. We did not like the weather and we came up at the top and then you don't wanna know then. Oh yes you do!! Nooo. Err Yeah. After the Vaicono we went to Herculaneum. It was the dead ruins of doom. It looked very fun to play in like for hide and seek. It was in a big hole. The weather was very sunny and very nice now. The Roman houses are different to my house because they had little rooms and one big room in the middle. They had gardens in the middle of their houses too with little ponds. The houses were made of stone and the had house numbers which looked newer than they should of looked from the eruption. All the houses were in one big row and they had a normal sized pavement but the road was smaller than these days ones. And in middle sized rooms there was dead skeletons in each room next to each other in one little row they looked freaky and dead. They looked like they were risen from the dead mostly just sitting there doing nothing. Herculaneum was a very fine town and it looked quite nice to live there.

Jude (typed word for word with minimal editing by Zach)





Sunday, 29 March 2015

To Ravello and back....in one piece - 29th March

Today was our drive along the Amalfi Coast, an exciting experience to say the least!

We set off rather late, but we blame the change of clocks. Putting Positano into the satnav, we headed up hill, and up, and up. Almost the most exciting part of the day was early on. Imagine the precipitous, narrow roads that worm their way around these hillside towns. Then combine with satnav that has three settings: Fastest, Shortest, and Bloody Eccentric. Using the latter, we are commanded to climb south, then veer off onto minor side roads, until we are very nearly wedged up someone's back ally (and that is no euphemism!). It took some embarrassing reversing to extricate ourselves, after which we just followed the obvious road signs.

Cresting the peninsula on which Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast reside, a spectacular view unfolds, and we glide our way down hill and along the windy, fearful roads. Gripping the steering wheel with a Herculean squeeze, I can't imagine this trip being one we get out of alive. An early conversation went, "Who should write the blog tonight?". "The survivor", came the reply! Only at that moment, whilst I fretted at the wheel, did I notice a young lady riding a scooter behind me trying to overtake us, steering one-handed, whilst nochulantly smoking with the other. Quite emasculated, I felt.

I realise now why there are few Italian cars without bumps or scratches, and many without wing mirrors (not that they make excessive use of them - why bother when you have a horn?). The road along the coast is as beautiful as it is anxiety-inducing, but I loved every moment of it. Not only did the sun shine all day, and the sea was an incredible 'turquoise-ie', as Zach put it, there were gorgeous views in every direction. Driving, I could only snatch glimpses, but I was fascinated by the terraced slopes, the bridges and the tunnels, and the ingenious ways in which inhospitable contours had been tamed.

We passed through Positano (though we did look for a place to park, we failed, and the consensus was that, pretty though it was, we had seen enough of the town by the time we reached an exit point again), so we wheeled our way along towards Amalfi and lunch. Once sated, we braced ourselves and headed up hill to Ravello, and the recommendations did not disappoint. I have not seen views like it since travelling in Himachel Pradesh and the foot hills of the Himalayas. The only thing missing was a Tibetan Buddhist monastery hanging precariously off the side of a hill. The exquisite beauty of the place was not even diminished by the fact that the Americans (and plenty of them) seem to ohave found it first. We explored the narrow lanes, drank coffee in the Piazza Vescovado (not the kids, they are hyper enough already!), and even popped into the church of San Francesco, where you light electric votive candles by dropping coins in a slot.

The journey home provided its own entertainment as streams of  life-limited motorcyclists overtook us on hairpin bends and blind corners. There were even cyclists and joggers along the road, vying for space and mortality (even though it is up to 20*c, the locals are still in heavy coats and hats, and one jogger was wearing a full balaclava to protect them from the cold - I've never felt more like a Yorkshireman than in recent days when I have donned little more than shorts and tshirt in defiance of the native's winter apparel).

So that's another one to chalk up to experience. Fear and beauty in equal measure.
Tomorrow, Pompeii and 'the most dangerous volcano in the world'.

Nick



Sunny Sorrento ~ 28th March

After arriving in Sorrento in the rain last night it was a joy to awake to a sunny day.  The views from our apartment are amazing with the sea and mountains around us (including Mt Vesuvius!).  We are staying just on the edge of Sorrento and decide to explore the local area on foot and head off towards the town.  The streets are lined wth orange and lemon trees and it is very tempting to pick the fruit!  A short walk takes us to a view point of the sea and cliffs below us with spectacular views. We explore the path down to the beach which takes us underground through the cliff.   It is a tiny beach and the sand is black from the volcanic rock.  The boys amuse themselves with stone skimming and Jude collects some shiny stones.

It is a pleasant walk into the town which is reasonably bustling with tourists, although not crowded thankfully.  Sorrento has that lovely seaside feel about it and is very relaxed out of season without the hoards of holidaymakers.  We find a quaint street to wander down and look at the market sellers displaying their goods.  Amongst the colourful fruit and vegetables we see the biggest lemons we have ever seen, literally bigger than my hand!  Nick and the boys head off to explore the port area and eat (more) gelato whilst I have a look around the market shops.  As we walk back to our apartment the day has become rather hot.  It is amusing to see the locals wrapped up in their coats (and sometimes hats too!) whilst we feel overdressed in jeans and Tshirts.  A cool gin and tonic on our verander is a perfect end to a hot day.  I can see Mt Vesuvius looming in the background .....  The Amalfi Coast tomorrow.

Diane




Saturday, 28 March 2015

The Ruins Of Ostia ~ 27th March

We arrived in Ostia, which is a small port town that was on the coast 2000 years ago give or take a few hundred years, at about 11:00. The town of Ostia - also the home of Flavia Gemina from the 'Roman Mystery' series of books (check it out!!!) was in ruins ;-(. Temples and houses were no more. It took a long time to walk all the way across it but on the way we saw a well and mini amphitheatre! Did you know that Ostia is the largest preserved archeological site in Europe! On the way we decided to play tig in the mass of mazey ruins. There were loads of small rooms to quickly dive in and hide.  Eventually, we got to the other end and found a museum. Inside there were sculptures, statues and paintings.  It was very exciting to visit this place that I had visitited before in Caroline Lawrence's fictional world.

Reuben




Friday, 27 March 2015

Religious Poundland ~ 26th March

So today we went into Rome again, and I have to say I enjoyed it a lot more this time with about 98% less selfie stickers and 100% better weather. But unfortunately my esteemed Fathers' phone had decided to not work on this particular day, after an unexpected caper with a natural downpour of early morning rain whilst running. As a result of this entanglement I had to be the guide. So I quickly responded to this terrible shenanigan by downloading my own map of Rome on my phone. Tentatively I directed our party to the right place to get off and we headed off. First we went into Campo de' Fiori, and in reasonable time too as the bus decided it might as well come this time. My parents got their own coffee mugs and my Dad decided, of all the colours to get, what he was insisting was 'Franciscan Brown'. We then went and got pizza. It was very nice And we were particularly pleased when our delicacy arrived that we had gone for the no. 15 chip pizza with: Tomato, Mozzarella, Basil and soft French Fries. So yeah it was very nice.

Then we went to the Jewish Ghetto. At least it was a Jewish Ghetto, I think, because it didn't look like a Ghetto. In fact it looked quite nice. You could easily spot the Jewishness by the kosher shops and deep fried artichokes. I bought a postcard, it wasn't exactly a major event but it happened. We then moved onto more religious ground when we stumbled up to San Ignasio and looked round the massive church. Following along the religious theme we managed to pass a shop selling priesty things, which my Mum found particularly amusing. Just round the corner we saw another priest shop and watched two nuns walk in excitedly and my Mum said 'Look, its a religious tat shop' which was of course immediately responded by 'I didn't know you could get €100 gleamingly golden chalices in pound land' after this little escapade we once again put our faith in my phone (and by extension me) to guide us to the bus. But we did stop for a doughnut on the way as we didn't get pudding in the restaurant.

~Zach~


Wednesday, 25 March 2015

What do selfie-stick sellers sell when it's raining? ~ 25th March

Our second day in Rome dawned wet. And, despite our wishes, ended wet. Oh, and it was fantastically wet between those times! Altogether, precipitation was the theme of the day.
I, Nick, just to show off, got up early and ran into the city, round the outside of the Colluseum, and back again (all in pouring rain). It should have been a five miler, but, because of my amazingly poor sense of direction this morning, it became eight as I headed confidently out of the city in the wrong direction!

The answer to the question posed in the title above is 'umbrellas and ponchos'. All the sellers, all male and all non-European, usually sell from a limited stock of selfie-sticks and squeeky-ball-animal-thingies. But, as soon as the weather turned, they all morphed into wet-weather gear salesmen. Then later, in a brief window of not-so-terrible-weather, a selfie-stick or two emerged like shy spring flowers! Kind of sweet.

When we were all ready this morning, and because of the deleterious weather forecast, we all jumped on the 628 bus and headed to the Vatican. Surely, it being only March, the climate unfriendly, and a Wednesday afternoon, we would virtually have the place to ourselves?! In our ignorance and naivety, we were met by queues of hundreds, if not thousands, of hardy tourists. In another queue later on we fell into conversation with a young American couple who said, "We made a mistake. We thought, what with this terrible weather, and it being only March, let's go to visit the Vatican. We'll have it to ourselves!"

So, shying away from the long, wet queues waiting to go into St Peter's Basillica, we headed round the corner, already somewhat damp, to join the line for the Vatican Museum. And it was a long one! Determined, and not seduced by the touts promising quick entry, in return for relieving one of one's hard earned Euros, we waited. And waited. And.......but at least we had the intermittent driving rain (did I mention the weather?) for entertainment.

The boys, in fact, were fabulous. We got in after an hour or so and explored the treasures within. Some seem to have been permanently borrowed from Egypt. Most, the ancient Roman bits and pieces especially, were stunning. You couldn't turn your head without drinking in a couple of millennia of history and art. Raphael, Michelangelo....in fact all the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtals were represented, me thinks.
Our visit, to our delight, coincided with that of Japan, so it seemed, and about half of the available Spanish school children, who brought with them a delightful air of sullen boredom.

And then, near the very end of our visit, we burst out into the Cistine Chapel - beautiful! All the artistic entertainment necessary for a long and boring sermon. But how gorgeous! We couldn't move for visitors, and the awed atmosphere was occasionally disrupted by one of the staff yelling intermittently, over the general subdued chatter, for SILENCE and REPECT! Rather shattered the spell.

At the end of our visit to the museum we were disgorged once again, now warm and nearly dry, back onto the rainy Rome streets. It was after 5pm, and Diane pulled us over to St Peter's Basillica to see if the crowds and queues had now abated. Through driving rain we found a minimal line of people, and made our way via security checks into the very heart of the Vatican. Wow! Despite there being enough collected water on the floor of the church to swim to the high altar, it was overwhelmingly beautiful. The crowds had mostly gone home, and we (relatively speaking) had the place to ourselves. Michelangelo' s Pieta did it for me. Aged only 23 when he completed it, the sculpture was truly gorgeous.

Back out into the rain again (it has really got the hang of it by now) we headed off to find our bus stop. All of us, very wet to our under-layers, then laughed and joked as we then waited 45 long cold minutes until a friendly local came to our rescue and put us on an alternative route. A slightly hairy journey then followed as, because water had got into my phone earlier on, the satnav played up, and the misty windows and darkened skies stopped us seeing where we were going.

The relief at arriving back at the flat and changing into warm dry clothes was enormous. Jude had gone quite crinkly over the course of the day. A large plate of spaghetti each, and a couple of glasses of wine for the parents, and order and calm were once more returned to the universe.

Tuesday, 24 March 2015

Roaming in Roma ~ 24th March

We awoke to a beautiful morning with lovely views from our balcony of the local park.  We are staying in a neighbourhood on the edge of Rome and with the car parked securely in the garage for a few days (phew I hear Nick say!) we went to find the bus to take us into Roma!  After a 20 minute ride we reach the city and head towards the Pantheon (after Zach popped into a music store to buy drum sticks!).  We have arranged to meet Chris and Judith Humble, who are also in Rome, for a coffee and wait in the sun by the fountain.  The Pantheon is impressive as the largest unreinforced concrete dome ever built.  As the sun shone through the oculus of the dome's roof, we visit Raphael's tomb (the artist not the ninja turtle) and view the statues and frescoes.

Rome is easily viewed on foot and so we set off to explore some of Rome's iconic sights.  The Trevi fountain, currently being restored and drained of water, was still worth a look, with its impressive statue of Neptune.  Next the Piazza Navona a pleasant place with its three fountains amongst numerous artist selling their wares and let's not forget the hawkers with their selfie sticks!  Around pretty much every corner you turn has an ancient monument to view and it is incredible to feel how much history is around us.  We briefly walk along the river and can see St Peters dome in the distance.  Next we head towards the colosseum, viewing the impressive Roman forum and Palatine Hill on the way.  Just around the corner and we see the colosseum ahead and after a short walk we are standing beneath it in all its glory.

With our feet feeling rather tired we take the bus back to our apartment. There is still plenty more of Rome to view but are we pleased with what we have seen and not least that we managed to navigate the bus journey both ways successfully!  Rain is forecast for tomorrow so a good day to view the Vatican Museum.

Diane

Monday, 23 March 2015

All roads lead to......... 23rd March

So we left our beautiful country retreat this morning, but not without a stash of the local wine in the boot. It is Reuben's birthday, so we were all up early. Diane had brought a birthday banner from home (and some candles for later - how ingenious!). We now have a big grown-up Reuben, who fell asleep watching Star Wars this evening.
We popped in to visit Monteriggioni on the way, claimed by some to be the prettiest village in Italy. A hill top village with intact defensive walls and incredible views. Not bad at all.
After that we headed south, stopping off somewhere random to raid a supermarket, and staying only long enough for Diane to get locked in when she nipped to the loo!
Then on to Rome. I've decided that driving in Rome is like driving in London, but with additional homicidal mania! I can now tick it off my bucket list (it felt like the bucket was quite close at times) and we're arrived at our apartment intact. Beautiful balcony views with green parrots nesting only a few meters away (noisy buggers!).
Tomorrow we shall explore the city!!

Nick




Uffizi Art ~ 22nd March

After an hours drive we reach Florence, a city I have always wanted to visit.  It is an overcast day and a little colder than the last few days but still pleasant.  We manage to park just inside the city wall and wander through the quiet streets (it is Sunday morning) to find our way to the Uffizi art gallery.  After a short walk we see the duomo in the skyline and know which direction to follow.  We pause on the bridge to take a look at the city in all its splender.  There are a few more crowds once we reach the main streets and the usual vendors selling 'selfie sticks' which we have resisted so far!  We have a little time to explore before our timed tickets to the Uffizi and soon discover the magnificent Duomo.  It really is quite something, with its pretty pink, white and green colours and splendid frescoes above the doorways.  There are crowds of tourist taking photos and bustling around.

After a quick coffee stop (yes Zach the coffee is delicious and cheap!) we head to the Uffizi.  Nearby the building off the Piazza Della Signoria, Michelangelo's statue of David stands tall above us and is quite spectacular despite being a copy.  There are plenty of statues to view before we make our way to the gallery.  The building in itself is a work of art with frescoes on the ceilings.  We travelled through the huge building viewing a range of sculptures and paintings including works by Giotti, Botticelli, Caravaggio, Leonardo and Michelangelo (AKA the ninja turtles to the boys!).  The boys were great and didn't moan too much!  I think this is the most art they have ever seen in one place!  Afterwards Nick, Zach and Reuben had the finest (and I think most expensive) gelato Italy has to offer!  We left the city feeling a little tired but a lot more cultured.

Diane





Saturday, 21 March 2015

Lucca and Pisa - 21st March

We got up early this morning to make a good start, which was pretty much a first for us. The vineyard on which were are staying is hard to leave, especially in the sunshine. Sadly, yesterday's eclipse was a bit of a non-event this far south (Reuben was upset that we hadn't told him it was happening, despite the fact we sat him in front of a BBC TV channel which broadcast it live - there really wasn't a discernable darkening of the skies here!).
So, today, we headed north to Lucca to explore this city within high walls. There is indeed a tall tower with what looks like a small orchard growing out out of the top of it. The narrow winding streets are a delight, and we had our first Italian pizza from an authentic pizzeria (served, no less, by a Natalie Portman look-alike).
Lucca seems to shut down on a Saturday afternoon, and the streets are left to be cleaned and swept as though after a particularly rowdy party. But we had other plans.
Driving south for half an hour we arrived at Pisa, parking not two minutes from the famous, if worryingly constructed, tower. It is certainly spectacular. Couldn't help thinking that the builders of the splendid neighbouring cathedral must feel (in their demise) a tad frustrated that their marvelous construction gets a little sidelined by a wonky tower in its grounds!
The two hour drive back to the apartment over Tuscan backlanes was worth it - quite stunning!
Tomorrow.......Florence!
N.B.



,

Friday, 20 March 2015

Holy Spoons ~ 20th March

After spending considerable time waiting for this 'long awaited' eclipse with lots of excitement (from most of the family) we waited outside in the blistering heat to speculate this fantastic and unique event. After a considerable while longer nothing had happened and the only noticeable change was getting a few degrees cooler and the noise of the British public on TV increasing by several decibels from the wonderful experience they were supposedly experiencing.

Later in Siena we walked round a lot, then climbed a lot and then went round a museum which was full of weeping angels and other such statues and a floor dedicated to holy spoons and candle holders. Which was fascinating and delightful! After that we visited the 3-parts of the Duomo and saw lots of church which was also fascinating. My parents were dead pleased with themselves when the found a shop selling 70p coffee and macaroons at a chocolate festival.  After  that we'd seen everything so we went home.*
*it was nice.

~Zach~

a

Vineyards and Rolling Hills ~ 19th March

We left Verona and travelled South for our next stop which is to be in Monteriggioni near Sienna.  Soon the landscape changed and we could see rolling hills and vineyards, quite beautiful.  Around 3 hours later and we arrived at the hill top village of San Gimignano for a brief stop over.  The temperature had risen to 20 degrees at its hottest which was delightful and unexpected.  San Gimignano is a tourist magnet in the summer so it was a treat to visit out of season without the hoards of visitors.  From afar, San Gimignano looks like a town from a Renaissance painting with its 15 medieval towers (once numbered 72).  The narrow streets are lined with tourist shops selling shoes, bags, jewellery and pottery (which I managed to resist!).  The boys enjoyed 'award winning' gelato whilst Nick and I drank delicious coffee in the square.

After a short drive and we reached the 'argiturismo Le Gallozzole' which has a small collection of apartments set on a working vineyard producing olive oil and wine.  We were greeted by the lovely Guido who showed us round and told us we were the only guests staying this week so we have the place to ourselves.  We purchased a couple of bottles of local wine and sat on our patio as the sun set over the vines, quite breathtaking. This place really is beautiful and feels like a real retreat in contrast to the apartment in bustling Verona.  Feeling very relaxed and after perhaps a little too much wine, I know I will sleep well tonight!  Tomorrow Siena.

Diane





Wednesday, 18 March 2015

Quatre Églises ~ 18th March

Today was our tour of the Veronese churches (after a 6 mile early morning run around town, of course!). It was also the first day of not using the car, which was great!
We walked into the city, getting the hang of crossing roads 'Italian-style' (see a gap and go for it - they'll probably/possibly stop). It was a decent walk in, and the weather was warm and bright. Heading back to the Roman Arena, and the non-elucidating Turismo Ufficio, we started our tour at San Zeno, whom I believe to be the patron saint of Verona. Beautiful! Art everywhere. Frescoe coming out of one's ears.
Then lunch at a recommended restaurant (Tre Risotti). Excellent food, all ordered in Italian! (Not good Italian, I hasten to add). Diane pitched in with the ordering, and we nearly had a litre of wine to get through over lunch!
Three more churches to go on our 'cumulativo' tickets, and the boys were brilliant. Jude has skipped quietly around more sacred spaces than most people.....ever!
Then, at the end of a long day, we walked the couple of miles back to our apartment. A lovely day with quite lovely children.
Tomorrow we move on to near Siena, and a place in the midst of a vineyard. It's tough, but one braces oneself to endure!



N.B.

Bull Fight! ~ 17th March

Yesterday the Bird family went to Venice.  It took about 1 hour to drive there from our apartment in Verona.  When we got there we parked at the top of a giant car park on the 10th floor (right at the top).  From the top of the building we could see spectacular views.  The things we could see included:
  • A thousand bridges
  • San Marco
  • Loads of gondolas and 'water buses'
  • Sparkling waters (and murky ones)
Of course we didn't just look at the views.  After we crossed most of the bridges (as many as we could see) we walked into a reasonably large square called Campo San Polo, and yes it is famous for bull fights!  Although it was very beautiful there seemed to be something missing ...... the Bulls!  Instead there were pigeons.  Loads of pidgeons!

Reuben

Tuesday, 17 March 2015

Venice, How Could We Resist ~ 17th March

Being only 75 minutes outside Venice, how could one resist? We drove out from Verona and motorway'd it all the way, apart from the exciting last couple of miles (not that Italian roads aren't always 'exciting'!) right into the edge of Venice itself.
Parking ten floors up in a multi-storey car park, with the ascent like a helter skelter in reverse, we climbed on the 'veranda' floor with immediate views of the city. The €24 we paid to park for the day was only slightly more expensive than we paid on our walk around for two espressos and three cokes!
Eschewing the canal buses, we walked across the city to San Marco via some of the most beautiful streets, canals and bridges I have ever seen. It being mid March, the tourist numbers were moderate (don't you just hate tourists when you're visiting foreign cities? Especially foreign ones??), so it was very pleasant wandering around in the spring weather.
We visited a couple more churches (San Steffano, I believe), and a music museum, but it was the views and the atmosphere that we really loved.
Highlight of my day? Fleeting views of history and the mad architectural venture that is Venice.
Jude's highlight? Chasing pigeons around a plaza at lunchtime!
N.B.





Monday, 16 March 2015

But soft! What light through yonder window breaks? - 16th March

Beautiful Verona did not disappoint.  Despite the weather being a little drizzly the city still managed to shine.  After a leisurely morning (and enjoying the fact that we did not have to drive for 7 hours!) we took a short trip into Verona to orientate ourselves. We  strolled over one of the city's bridges which gave beautiful views of what delights the city had in store.  Above our heads were balconies and wooden shutters and beneath our feet cobbled streets.  It really feels like we are in Italy now!  It was lovely and quiet which allowed us to wander leisurely around the streets.  The only crowds we met were when we went to view Juliet's balcony, her statue and the graffiti walls strewn with love letters. The City also boasts an arena which is quite impressive as the third largest one in Italy and a good sight to wet our appetites for Rome!  Tomorrow Venice.

Diane